Florence, Pisa, Cinque Terre (22~25 August 2014)

Italy is our last holiday for the year, as after this trip I will be undergoing an operation and the recuperation takes month. Corinne and Alfrance were making an Italy road trip, and suggested we meet up each other for a short trip. This was a fantastic idea, as 25 Aug is a bank holiday, so Dear would just have to take a day off on Friday and we could do Florence, Pisa and Cinque Terre. Florence and Pisa are in our must go list and Flybe has a route to Florence.

For air tickets of GBP 500 for two people, we set off on 22 Aug, and reached Florence airport in the afternoon. Florence is a very small city and capital of the Tuscany region in Italy. It is another popular tourist city famous for its beautiful Renaissance architecture, culture, and of course its factory outlet "The Mall' (we didnt make the trip there).

Piazza of Santa Maria Novella

Getting to the city center was easy and convenient by "Vola in Bus" bus shuttle which operated between the airport and main train station Santa Maria Novella, and costs on 6.00euros. The journey merely took about 20 minutes.

On arrival, we took a few minutes walk to our hotel Santa Maria Novella which we chose due to its location. The room was clean, spacious, but noisy at night as it faced the main square with a restaurant below.

piazza del Duomo

Palazzo Vecchio-the impressive town hall of Florence

Signoria Square

The famous Ponte Vecchio-The oldest bridge . Built in 1218

Ponte Vecchio-A busy bridge with goldsmiths and jewelleries shops lining along the bridge, and of course packed with tourists

The after dark of Florence was not quiet. We took a pleasant stroll back to our hotel after dinner. The stroll was pleasant, the city was still vibrant with street performers and tourists.

Before returning to our hotel, we went to the train station to get the next day ticket to the leaning tower Pisa. While we were figuring out how to purchase the tickets at the self-service ticket kiosk, a young man behaved weirdly standing so close behind my dear. He looked restless, and suspicious. I suspect he was a pickpocket, as when we let him use the machine first, he just simply pressed a few option and  left hurriedly. Lucky dear didnt leave any valuable stuff in the haversack, or else we could possibly the pickpocket victim, and lucky we noticed him at our back. Well, got the ticket. Ready to wake up early for a short trip to Pisa.

The train ride to Leaning Pisa Tower took about 1 1/2 hour per trip from Santa Maria Novella train station to Pisa S. Rossore. This is the nearest train station to Pisa Tower, but I was quite surprise that many alighted at Pisa Centrale station which is 30 minutes walk to the tower , instead of alighting at this station, which is only a short walk of 15 minutes. This is a very small and quiet train station without clear sign to the Pisa tower. 

The Leaning pisa tower wasnt as magnificent as I had imagined. Well, probably if you bought a ticket walking up to the top of tower for a view of nearby, or else, an hour with photo snapping is just enough. 

We spent about 1 hour there and then walked back to the train station to catch the 10:43 train to Florence. We will have to collect our rental car before 1:00pm to proceed our 2nd part of the journey to Cinque Terre, and to meet our friends from Singapore.

Surrounding Florence, one can make a trip to Sienna, Lucca, San Gigminano in the Tuscany region.

Cinque Terre (cheenkweh Tehreh)

We picked up our small Volkswagen from Florence Thrifty car rental around noon time. After a quick  and yet delicious lunch at a nearby restaurant, we head off to our final destination - Cinque Terre.

Cinque Terre in Italian means "Five lands" which cling to the Ligurian Cliff along Italy's west coast. The five lands were once peaceful fishing villages but now have become a very popular tourist attractions. Each villages has its charm and one should explore the 5 villages.

We drove from Florence to where we stay "Locanda Da Marco" at Pignone, a very small village, a very local B&B away from La Spezia.  The journey from Florence to Pignone was about 2 1/2 hours. The traffic at the motorway was very bad. We were caught in the slow traffic for more than hour. After exit the motorway, the road leading to our B&B was winding, and series of bend.

We reached our B&B about 7pm, The sat nav did not bring us directly at the front of the B&B, so we had some challenge communicating with the local asking for direction. Finally, we called Corinne and her friends, and we were united.

Pignone is a very small village with small town center. As night drawn, we were all tired from the long drive (Corinne drove from Lake como and Milan), we settled down in one of the Pizza restaurant. The food was not great, but we enjoyed ourselves much with catching up, and we got to know Corinne's friend - Joseph and Charlene.

We were there during the end summer season, the weather was cooling at night. At night, the villagers, being women, kids ...will come out from their house and gather together at the small town hall. Children playing balls, women sitting together chit-chatting. How simple life it is. This is what the busy city people missing.

We were back to our B&B around 10pm. The house was a double storey house with 9 guestroom. Next to it were the restaurant run by the owners. We occupied the 3 rooms upstairs. The room and bathroom was clean, but there was no air-conditioner, and being a clean freak, i do not dare to use the blanket. Oh , there was no wifi. At night, I had difficulty falling asleep, and i was woke up by unknown itchness caused by unknown insect bites. I woke up to put my socks on, and cover my self with my jacket. Well, for a price GBP 126 for 2 nights, I should not complain much. At least it was very clean.

Next day, rise and shine. We had the breakfast together. The coffee was nice, and the homemade croissant was delicious too. But the owner lady only allowed us to have 1 piece, and no refill.

Driving and parking in the 5 little villages are difficult as the roads are extremely dangerous and narrow, parking is limited too. So we drove to the bigger town-Levanto with plentiful of paid secured parking which was conveniently next to the train station.

The unlimited train and trail pass for full day costs Eur24 each. We took the train from Levanto to Monterosso, the first and busiest village from the north.

Monterosso is the largest of the five, and most touristy crowded with many beach lovers.

To explore the real beauty of the 5 villages, the best way is to hike. Having said that, for a height phobia person like me, and who deters all the adventurous stuff, I definitely will not initiate the idea to hike. But Charlene was quite enthusiastic about this, and we think it could be quite fun to do the hike together.

Our first trail and the final trail was to hike from Monterosso to Vernazza.  The beginning seemed easy, starting from the new town of Monterosso to the old town, walking along the protected coast stairs ( my legs still trembled while walking up the stairs, useless!!)

We were on  the #Trail 2 which was the longest and most difficults. It had many narrows stairs and passages. The uncountable stairs were the killer. We took a few short break in between. After reaching up to flat ground, We met a young Australian lady who was an experienced hiker told us we have completed on 1/3 of the total trail.
Although the trail was only 3 km and the internet says take 2 hours. I think this is the guideline from expert hikers. For first timer like me, it took us more than double to complete the trail. There were some sections without handrail, which I got frightened. But there was no turning back, we would have to keep walking. Thankfully to my dear, walking behind me to watch out me , and carried my heavy weight bag so as I could then walk easily.

On reaching the final point, we stopped at the camera spot for panorama view of Vernazza. Well, though the trek was tough, but probably if I had prepared for the trek. However after the first experience, I do not mind for another trek. To prepare for that, we need to bring alot of water, some treats to energize ourselves.

Vernazza is a very charming villages. The view from atop was amazing. We stop over for many camera shots. It is right on the water, and there is a church tower on one side. The ruins of a castle are on one of the hills overlooking Vernazza.

After reaching the ground, we settled down in one of the restaurants for food and drink to replenish our lost energy. I really sweat alot. But think about it . It was fine. However, we all decided not to trek from Vernazza to Corniglia as we were exhausted after the first trail.

Corniglia is the only village which not on the water, but on top of the cliff. We decided to take the train. But the train brought us back to Monterosso . The timetable was incorrect. While at Monterosso, we waited under the hot sun for almost 45 minutes and no train in sight. The next train came but brought us to La Spezia instead. As the time was running late after all the delays by the train, we were not able to make it to the rest 3 villages. We decided to stop at another most popular villages-Manarola . We were there about 5pm, and after some photo taking and walking around, we catch the 6:25pm train back to Levanto. We have missed Corniglia and Riomaggiore .

We had our last night dinner at the restaurant run by the B&B owner. Food was not fantastic, but the restaurant was packed with locals. The price was cheap.

The next day after breakfast, we said goodbye to our dear friends from Singapore, we head off to the Florence airport to fly back to Nottingham, and they continue their journey to Florence and Pisa.

I love this place, love the companion, and now I still do miss the trekking experience with them. If there is chance to come back to Cinque Terre, I would say yes.

Introduction to Artisan Patisserie

Dear & I had an idea to set up a small coffee bar when we go back to Singapore. The concept is very simple. Just serve good coffee for take away, and few but tasty croissants, sandwiches, salads. Nothing complicated. Croissant, or Danish pastries have always been my favourites ( though I seem like loving all cakes, sweet desserts...).  People has been raved about The Tiong Bahru Bakery in Raffles Shopping Center, so we went for a try during one home trip back to Singapore. umm....I found it was over-rated, nothing special about it. I had better ones in UK, and are even cheaper. For example, Pret A Manger. My passion for baking grows after living here, and I had always learnt all the baking from youtube, magazines. I had never attended any cookery or baking course. Thanks for my most loving dear, he strongly encouraged me to go. He paid for the 1 day course fee of £165, and even took a day off to chauffer me as the course only runs during weekday. 

I attended the “Introduction to Artisan Patisserie” on 27 June'14 (Friday). 

The baker was  Emmanuel (The baker/author of “How to make bread”) , and joined with me were 10 others baking enthusiasts.

It was a full day course, running from 10:00am -5pm, with an hour lunch break. Good selection of pastries were served for breakfast before the course started, and each of us were given a goodie bag with recipe. Emmanuel showed us the techniques to make good croissant dough, and we made our own puff pastry dough to bring home at the end of the day. He had also taught us how to cut the pastry dough into different patterns and decorated with fruits on top. He was also a very responsible and helpful instructor who answered my queries after I emailed him about my first bake at home. Not forgetting to mention David, the helpful assistant who gave us helping hands while Emmanuel was busy with other students.

 

The facilities were excellent, and each of us had our own big spacious working station to work on. There was a mini fridge at the bottom of most workstations too.

The lunch prepared by the school team was delicious. I tried the apple cinnamon bread which was fantastic. Soft texture inside, and tasty. I may consider taking up the Introduction to Artisan Baking with Emmanuel again.

After a long day, at the end of the day, the joint-effort of all attended the course produced an impressive varieties of pastries such as croissant, pain au raisin, pain au chocolate… to take home. The school had kindly provided us a big carton tray to put all the pastries in. I took about 9 (croissants, pain au raisin, pain au chocolate,  palmier, apricot pastry) The next morning, I warmed them up again in the oven ,The pastries were still crusty, and tasted really well. I was really glad dear enjoyed the pastries very much too, as he was quite particular about the buttery taste of croissant, but he gave a thumb up of our bake. 

So far, I have attempted twice at home. It was not difficult. But my biggest challenge was the rolling out of croissant pastry as when the weather is warm, and if the dough is not cold, once you roll out, the butter starts melting very soon, oozing out everywhere, and make it difficult to roll. The rolling and folding into single book turn required 3 times.The last resort is to sprinkle flour, but we were told not a good idea, as it affects the texture.

My first attempt at home

2nd attempt

Learning

book turn

one of the lady was practising rolling up pain au raisin

cutting the croissant pattern. Looks like Eiffel tower

Bake to take home. Yummy

Having learnt the technique to bake croissant and danish pastries, I start to appreciate it so much. Simple ingredients but great deal of time, effort, patience involved to produce a tray of good croissant.

水乡之都~威尼斯 (24~26/5/2014)

Venice, the water city, is one of the place I have longed to visit. I have heard so much things about it. People has been talking how romantic & special this city is. Yes, indeed. It is truly romantic. However, I find it too touristy, and too expensive compared to other parts of Europe I have been to.

We were there in a perfect May day for 3D2N. The temperature ranging from 13C at night - 23C during the day. On the sunny day, I did feel a bit warm, but not humid or sweaty. We stayed at Best Western Olimpia at Piazzale Roma, where the main bus station, and the airport bus to Treviso airport-AVTO is. So it is a perfect location. However, on the day of arrival, we walked towards the wrong direction towards to the railway station by crossing a long overhead pedestrian bridge. And then made a round walked to the opposite side of the canal. We were lost. I had read that Venice is a place you just will get lost, and how true it is, the map is of no use at all. The road sign was bad, and in fact, the address printed on the hotel booking sheet was not complete. It did not specify the street name. Luckily we traveled light, nonetheless crossing the many bridges, and going around the area blindly still a big challenge. Finally, we spotted the hotel. Oh.. It was just behind the bus stop, a few steps away. The facade was quite old, out-dated.

Well, afterall, the hotel location is still convenient. Going downtown to the main square-St Mark square, we need to travel by water taxi #1 or #2, and the journey took approximately 40 minutes. Felt excited on my first water bus ride, but the journey was too much boring and long.

The view overlooking grand canal from the bridge from Piazzale Roma to the train station.

quiet , peaceful neighbourhood near the hotel

Best Western Hotel Olimpia facade

Breakfast at the hotel courtyard. Breakfast spread was not too fantastic, in fact I was quite disappointed with the pastries and even the coffee (I assume all Italian coffee is nice). Not as tasty as I had in Paris. This courtyard is a very quiet chill out place for breakfast before kick off our day.

Piazza San Marco, the symbolic heart of Venice is packed with tourist . Overpriced food served in the cafes & restaurants around the square. A cup of cappuccino as high as Euro8.00. We went into one of those small alleys, and found a small sandwich bar for toilet break & quick lunch. We ordered a sandwich , two glasses of drink, the total bill for this simple meal was Euro 20.

In the heart of Venice, this landmark bridge across the Grand Canal, It is the oldest and was the dividing line for districts of San Marco and San Poloand .

Last day in Burano Island

                                                                                                                                                               

Another long journey to this colourful and unique island - Burano Island. It is to be more correctly to be called an archipelago of four islands. These islands are very small and linked by small bridges, I had initially thought Burano is just one island.The water bus ride took almost like 2 hours (the return was shorter, about 45 mins) as it went a loop passing by Murano Island (the famous murano glass making factories, lack of time and gave it a miss). Once you were on board of this island, it was truly picturesque and beautiful. Though it is still a tourist place, it was far less noisy or busy as in Venice. I love this island very much given its beautiful coloured house. Yes, you will feel happy being in this island. There were many shops selling lace, but the price were expensive which the designs seem like those I can find in Pasar Malam. Probably, I am not good at differentiate the workmanship of these with those cheaper lace products.

                                                                                                                                 


We had our lunch at Da Romano Restaurant based on tripadvisor review. Food was fantastic, and fresh mussels cooked really well.

We didnt spend too much on this island, as we have a flight to catch at night, and around 3pm we left the island, taking the water bus back to Piazzale Roma. Before heading home, we had a quick coffee and pastry at the local pastry shop nearby hotel. 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     
In my opinion, a visit to Burano island is a must if anyone is in Venice, and has an extra 1 day to spend. It is simply too beautiful and special.